Cue Building College

Before you start reading here, I would like you to please click on the two photo's above and study them; give them a careful review and just sit there and stare at them for a minute.Those tips were returned to us from two different goofball's who said, our "tips suck, fell apart and were no good". The blame was all ours; "it was our fault for selling such crap". This is the nonsense that we have to put up with. It's never their fault and always our fault or the tips fault. It's very strange how 99.99% our our clients never have an issue.These freaking clowns are gluing tips on and then trimming them, with what I presume is perhaps a chisel or knife to chop the tip down. The second picture, the moron is taking a 14mm tip and trying to cut it down to like 9.5mm. You don't buy 14mm tips to cut down to 9mm. You buy smaller diameter tips for that or you take your time cutting them down.Look at those tips on the left! So now, he would have squared off areas that would need to be sanded and abusively sanded unmercifully! Can you imagine putting a tip through this brutal attack and expect the tip to withstand all that abuse!?No honest person with just half a brain would expect these tips to withstand such an attack. However, occasionally we get these misfits who want to either install their own tips or install tips for others.Please, if you are doing your own installations, buy the proper installation tools or for heavens sake, get a professional to do it. I mean, it's only $10 bucks or so to install a tip. If you can't afford that or are too cheap to spring for it, then please, PLEASE go elsewhere to buy your tips. We don't need your business and more importantly the abuse that comes from it after you hack the tip apart.The crap we have to put up with from these jokers never ceases to amaze me. Fortunately, they are few and far between but yes, they are out there and walk among us. INSTALLATION TECHNIQUE Installation has a lot to do with how a tip will play. If you have Cheap Charlie install the tip in the back seat of his car with pliers and drill, most likely it will play as well as Charlie installed it. You get what you pay for.Installation is paramount. A proper installation will not mushroom, will play consistent, will hold chalk and will last. All tips need to be cut down and some need to be cut back, some sanded and all burnished. If it's not done properly, you may not like a perfectly good tip that would otherwise play extremely well had it been properly installed.Delamination or the layers falling apart is always due to inexperienced installation where the installer builds up excessive heat by sanding and or cutting the tip to shape it. Experience is key as is not building up heat. Take your time and don't sand it excessively. All tips need to be cut down and not sanded down.Lastly, if the tip delaminates, pops off, explodes or balloons it's due to cockpit error. PERIOD. We've installed thousands of tips as have our clients and we sell tens of thousands of tips all without incident. All problems are 99.9999% of the time installation issues. Proper installation by a knowledgeable cue mechanic is always recommended and encouraged.

Here we show some fabulous cue construction technique. This was the actual forearm of a cue from a well known "cue maker". Even more surprising than this is that the usual voices from people within various newsgroup forums boast about how wonderful and what quality construction techniques this particular maker utilizes. The obvious conclusion is that these voices, or what we like to refer to as the �peanut gallery�, don�t really have a clue about the inner working of cue construction and the participants. They are so far from the true pulse of cue making that they actually don't have a clue as to who does what and how.Anyway, this was the actual forearm which had a �buzz�. The cue was taken apart and was going to be put back together properly until what was seen and displayed here became visible.Ok, so here we have a front that was turned down too fast or joined together to the handle too fast or a combination of both. The cue was then put on a lathe and did the mambo (warped while spinning) but the "cue maker" decided to just cut down the cue with a taper and in doing so, just cut the warp out. In doing so, the tenon and connection were forced cut off center and the results are shown here.The "cue maker" had three choices here:A) take the cue apart and rejoin the component partsB) scrap everything and start overC) turn out the warpObviously the correct answer is B but this illustrious "cue maker" decided that the almighty dollar shall prevail and chose option C. Afterall, who would or could possibly find out once the cue is together. Well, Ta Da!!!!This is a disgrace that this particular "cue maker" would allow this cue to be continued and even worse yet, be sold with such shoddy construction. We can only expect a beginner to realize these results and this "cue maker" was and is hardly a beginner. Very sad indeed. And he knows who he is.On a side note, this construction is prevalent with many imported cues from Taiwan, Mainland China and even the Philippines. Not all imports boast this fine construction but many do. It's sad to say that this shoddy display of craftsmanship emanates from the USA.

The first thing we'd like you to do is click on the picture to your left and study the photo. We want you to see if there is anything wrong with the item in the chuck. Study it carefully.Do you see anything wrong? Just look and see if everything is on center. As you look closely, you'll plainly see that there is more ferrule material on one side of center whereby making the ferrule installation off center. True quality craftsmanship (and yes, we are of course being sarcastic).This shaft was taken in for repair; we were asked to put a new tip on. While we will put tips on most any cues, we will not work on just any cue. This picture explains why. Cues from overseas usually exhibit some form of poor quality control and this creates more problems for us that the repair is worth. As such we refuse all such repair requests such as rewraps which notoriously spin out of control. To avoid any potential problems we respectfully decline all repairs of imported cues.To take this one step further, we will not do repairs on any production cues as well. In many instances, this type of construction is typical with many production cue makers. Pumping out quantity for cash profits has resulted in poorer quality in many American production cues. We were recently asked to glue a butt cap that came loose on a very well known production cue. We looked at it and declined the repair because the butt cap did not match up to the butt sleeve properly and when put in the lathe - well, that's another story.And to take this to the next level, the cue pictured here is from a well know custom cue maker. We were shocked at seeing this but when your name is well known and demand far exceeds a cuemakers capability, the net results are obvious. There is no excuse for this shoddy craftsmanship. It is just as easy to do it correctly as it is to produce this creation.The moral to this story.... just because you make a cue and cover a mistake does not mean that someone else may not find it out. Take your time and do it right. Do not put this type of quality into the marketplace and if you do, you will be found out. And when you can no longer sell a cue, you'll know why.Special Note: While we do not like to work on production cues, this is not to say that all production cues suffer from shoddy construction techniques. We will say that we have yet to see a imported cue that spins on center or is not warped. Everyone wants to be a cue maker!

Yeah, it's Brian again. Here he is holding two of his latest creations which still need final sanding and polishing. He actually did a pretty good job putting the finish on. We'll see how he does sanding them this time. Overall, not bad for a future Master. He's doing just fine now that he is taking his time. These cues may actually be salable (assuming he stays on course). :-) Now, he wants to know when he can make cues with points and veneers. He has yet to master doing sneaky pete's but soon enough we'll have him doing more complex cues. The lesson here is start off with simple projects and when that is mastered, then move up to more complex designs.Ok, enough about Brian. Here we are showing three methods of finishing a cue. The first is using Thin Cyanoacrylate. The second is using a Finishing Epoxy and Cyanoacrylate. The third is using a Water Borne solution. All three work well and you can achieve a nice glossy finish. There are other sections showing proper sanding techniques and showing the actual finishing station. We do hope you enjoy this section and have gained more information into building cues. Cue Finish With Cynoacrylate Here is one method of finishing cues. Cyanoacrylate can be used to finish a cue to a high gloss. You simply apply numerous coats of the thin Cyano . First you fold a paper towel and pour some Cyano onto the towel. Then, with the lathe turning you wipe the Cyano up and down the butt or shaft section. Do this step numerous times until the desired finish is achieved; usually 10 -20 coats. Let dry between several coats and reapply. You then let dry and wet sand with 400 to 2000 grit. And lastly, for a super mirror like finish, Micro-Mesh sanding sheets can be used to remove any hairlines and buff it out to an incredible gloss finish.You can use the regular thin Cyanoacrylate or we prefer to recommend the Odorless Cyanoacrylate for finishing cues. For doing small joining work with Cyanoacrylates, the regular is fine. But when doing large surfaces or working with it for prolonged periods of time such as finishing a cue, we recommend the odorless. If you choose to use the regular Cyanoacrylate, please use in a well ventilated area and be sure to wear an approved mask and goggles. The fumes are hazardous and an irritant. The odorless is the way to go for finishing but still wear protective gear. Cue Finish With Epoxy   Much has been written and discussed about 5 minute epoxy finishes. It's a good way to finish a cue without spraying automotive clear coat. This is one method of finishing a cue but requires time and patience. We will relate a little story. We have a friend and co-worker who is apprenticing with us. Now, Brian is a great guy and is willing to learn. Well, it seems that Brian read a cue building book written by some 'cue man' out there somewhere. After reading this book, Brian is now an "expert" in the art of cue building because he read the 'book'. We asked him if we could see the 'book' and as such skimmed through it. It is most certainly a worthwhile endevour and includes a lot of useful information. There are some things which we disagree with but that is a matter of preference while we did find a couple of outright and in our opinion, mistakes. Overall is is an excellent beginning into the art of cue building.Ok, so now with all that in mind.... Brian was up to the step of finishing a cue and he says, "hey Dude, (now, I'm a dude) we can finish the cue using epoxy". I say huh! Are you nuts. Why? I've been doing things, my way and they work, so let's leave well enough alone. However, I forgot that Brian is now an '"expert" because he read the 'book'. So he says, "Dude, the 'book' says you can use 5 minute epoxy". And so, I say, really now. And, what brand epoxy can we use? Brian, intelligently says, "Devcon". Devcon, I reply! You've got to be kidding. Brian says, "no Dude, here let me show you the chapter in the 'book'". And so I read it and yes, it does indeed state that you can use Devcon for finishing the cue. I sat there and tried to explain to Brian that you cannot use Devcon because it yellows. I also stated that you cannot use G5 or West System for the same reason, which of course Brian already knew (he read the 'book'). "No Dude, the 'book' specifically says that Devcon doesn't yellow", he replied. Oh, Devcon doesn't yellow which is news to me. I thought I knew it all but the 'book' does indeed state that it doesn't yellow and I guess it must be true (but I know better). I try and try to explain to Brian that Devcon yellows but he insists. After years of using and experimenting with epoxies, Devcon, West and G5 all yellow. I will repeat that. Devcon, West and G5 all yellow. PERIOD, end of conversation; there are no ifs, ands or buts. But, Brian knows better (he read the 'book' and is now an expert). And as such, I had to prove my point. I placed Devcon, G5, West and our own finishing epoxy on a white sheet of paper. Once dry, I exposed all of them to UV light and the results are seen on the inset photo of this page (top right photo).If you look at all the samples, what do you see? Devcon, G5 and West all yellowed. Do you agree? Of course you do. You plainly see that all of them (including the Devcon), yellowed. Do you see that Brian? The Devcon yellowed. End of conversation. The only one that did not yellow is Cue Components brand of epoxy. Now, we did not put this little story up to sell our own brand of epoxy. We did it to prove a point. However, now that we are writing all this, we think that we will offer it to those of you who want a non-yellowing finishing epoxy. Thank you and I do hope you enjoyed reading this and have gained some experience in cue building. And, the moral to the story is, don't believe everything that you read.The upside to all this... After showing Brian the above test he has finally put the book away. We can't even bring it up to him as it's a sore subject. However, as you can see by the goofy photo above, Brian has finally realized that despite what he reads and hears about building cues, we really do know better. And, after using Cue Components Finishing Epoxy he was one happy camper (you'd never know it by looking at the photo). How do we know, "Dude, you were right and this stuff goes on so much easier". And, "look at that shine Dude; it's off the hook!". Uh, yeah Brain, we know, now put it back on the hook and hang it up. Gotta love todays slang. :-)Application:Just mix it up and smear it on with your hand (using a glove of course). Try to put it on evenly and have the cue rotating after it's applied. You can set-up lights overhead to aid in drying. Let the cue sit for 24 hours prior to sanding. Then sand evenly until all rough and shiny areas are gone. Then, just wipe on 5 -10 coats of Thin Cyanoacrylate and let dry overnight. Once again, sand all rough and shiny areas off, wet sand up to 2000, then buff as usual using your favourite compounds.Special Note: While we specifically state that Devcon, G5 and West System epoxies all yellow when exposed to UV light, this in no way means that they are unacceptable for building cues. To the contrary, all mentioned epoxies are excellent for building cues. They are just not good for finishing cues where the epoxy will be exposed. They are perfectly acceptable for joining component parts when building cues. In fact, we use all three. Cue Finish With Water Borne Products Be sure your applicator is clean!!You can wipe on or spray on both the sealer and gloss coats. Spraying is always better. Be sure your spray gun is clean and free of debris and previous contaminants. The wood must be clean; wipe down the cue/wood with denatured alcohol and then apply one coat of sealer. It only takes a few seconds for the sealer to dry. Keep putting on coats until you have about 6-10 coats. Let it dry overnight and then sand all the shiny areas off until smooth. You may now apply the gloss coat in the same manner, however it takes longer for the gloss to dry between coats depending on humidity and your area. Put about 4-6 coats of gloss in one period. Once the gloss has dried for 1-2 days, lightly sand to a smooth finish; buff and wax as usual. Of course, the number of coats is up to you and your desired finish.When applying the sealer or gloss -- If you let either dry overnight, you must sand before applying additional coats of the same. If you apply either in one period (same day within a few hours) then you do not need to sand.If you need to thin either out please use distilled water to only the amount you are going to be using. Do not thin out the entire mixture as bacteria may build up.Additionally, do not use the sealer directly over metal rings which are larger than .015. If the cue contains metal rings, first place a coat of cyanoacrylate over the rings and then use the seal coat.More information about using a water borne solution is available by going to our Cue Components Cue Finish section. How To Sand The Cue Finish This subject is so difficult to explain. Once again, we show Brian here sanding the epoxy finish. If you note, he is not wearing a mask. The reason for that is because of the downdraft table under the lathe. It makes all the dust go downward and into the collector. It really does work that efficiently. It's a great addition to any shop.Next, if you look closely, you'll see that Brian is using a real large piece of sand paper and using both hands. Now, why is he doing it that way? Well, because we taught him to do it that way. It's the right way. You want to sand smooth and evenly up and down the cue in large even motions. This method creates the results we desire. Those results are a cue that is level, smooth and even without hills and valleys. If you sand with one hand using a small piece of sand paper, you will, in all likelihood create hills and valleys.We actually sand using an 8.5" X 11" sheet of sand paper. We told Brian to use half that until he masters the technique. A full sheet is just too much sanding power for a beginner. We started him off with 3" X 5" sheets. He's already graduated to the next size of about 4" X 11". Do not build up heat and move in large even strokes up and down the cue - evenly. And remember, sand paper clogs up so be sure to check it as you are sanding and you can clean it out by using your air hose. Work clean, neatly and take your time.This method of sanding is paramount in achieving a smooth finish without hills and valleys. Just keep sanding and sand to the lowest imperfection, evenly throughout the cue. It's great advice. You'll thank us.Additionally, you can sand to smoothness using the above method. However, for final sanding you need to wet sand in up and down motions to remove all the hairlines. Do not rotate when final sanding. Use 400 grit up to 2000 grit in up and down motions to get all the hairlines out (which occur from rotating). You can then use Micro Mesh sanding sheets for a high gloss, smooth and hairline free job. Ok... I just remembered another story about Brain which I am certain you will enjoy. One evening, Brian came over around 9pm and said, "Dude, can I put a finish on that cue"? Of course, after putting in a full day, the last thing I wanted to do was baby sit and work on a cue. But as usual, I said go ahead. I walked into the shop with him and asked what he intended to do. He said, "I want to put a finish on the cue". Ok, he knew the procedure and waiting times in between. As such, I left and went back to my recliner. Brian came in and out and told me what was going on. I just smiled and said ok. After all, he thought he was a master since he has been working on cues for about a month. I left him alone. Now, please pay particular attention to the time he arrived which was 9pm. It was now midnight and I was wondering where Brian was and as such, I walked into the shop. Well, there was Brian sanding up a storm; he looked like the white knight! I did all I could not to bust a gut! He told me what had happened and I just smiled and rubbed it in -- Brian... I told you that you have to let the stuff dry. "I know Dude", he replied. I left the shop.It's now 3am and Brian was MIA so I was wondering what the heck he was doing. Actually, I knew what he was doing but i just had to see it. I walked into the shop and there was Brian with the saddest face, just putting the cue back up on the rack. He had enough. I saw that the cue looked like raw wood and asked him what had happened. Well, he said this and that but the bottom line was that he put one finish on but didn't let it dry enough before sanding and as such ruined it. He then had to sand all that work off and start over. Of course, he didn't learn by that mistake and did it all over again for a second time and so he spent 6 hours working and sanding for nothing. Well, I don't know if it was for nothing because we decided to put out a new model cue. It's called the pencil cue! Why? Because he originally started out with a cue that was around .820 at the joint. From adding finish and sanding back to wood, adding finish and sanding back to wood, he ended up with .775 at the joint. Hence, the pencil point cue. :-)So, what did Brian learn from all this? Well, we left him to do it his way (even though we told him the right way) because he just wouldn't listen and so mistakes are some peoples best lesson. Now, he comes over, puts the finish on, we talk a bit and he leaves. Yep, he let's it sit overnight and doesn't rush anymore. Some people have to learn the hard way. We let him make the mistake but he'll never forget it and now, he will always have patience. It was his best teacher. The end.... of this chapter. We're certain we'll have more stories, so stay tuned and don't miss the next thrill packed episode of....'The Amazing Adventures of Brian'. Now I feel like saying, same Bat channel. Now, we're giving away our age. :-) Finish Station Here is our downdraft table with Grizzly lathe atop it. As you can see, it is now set up with 4 Halogen lamps to cure the Epoxy, Cyano or Water Borne finishes. When not in use, the lights swivel down and out of the way for sanding. We then add finish, pop the lights up and on, then rotate the cue for curing. Simple, inexpensive set-up. Efficient and does a great job.P.S. That cue is there just for display purposes and yes we know it needs the ring work and joint collar. :-) And, for those of you who want to know where to get a set of Halogen lamps like these, just go to your local Lowe's (isle 13). And remember, never, never, never leave Halogen lamps unattended. Buffing & Polishing Cues We're trying to maintain a totally unbiased opinion in this whole cue building area but when we think we have a product that is far superior than all others, we'll take the time to tout that product.This is the case with our System V buffing and polishing compounds. After your cue is sanded smooth, you'll require buffing and polishing compounds to bring out that shine. There are many products out there that adequately do that job but our System V does the best job to date of everything else that we've tried. Feel free to browse our System V Product.  

Yep, here's our very own Brian after just installing a joint pin. Did you ever see anyone so happy after working. Yes, the pride shows through as he's one proud peacock. Joint Pin Installation #1 To start off with, make sure your chuck is turning true. Then make certain your tailstock center is in alignment with your chuck center. And yes, we check our chuck and tail stock each time we install a joint pin. That's how important it is for everything to turn true.Now that everything is on center, place the cue in the lathe and chuck down. You will need a back chuck or something to hold the other end of the cue on center within the spindle. Assuming you already have a 60 degree center drilled in the joint end, just re-drill it again to be certain it's on center.Depending on what pin you are using determines the drill bits to use. It really doesn't matter as most pins are around the same diameter. You want to drill the hole using at least three (we use 4 which is definitely overkill) drill bits with the third bit being the final diameter size. Why three? You don't want chatter or resistance. Going in slowly and with three, you will remove the lease amount of wood and stay true. Each smaller size will assist the larger size in staying true.Ok, we'll provide a little more info at this point. If you really want to be dead nuts on center with the joint pin hole, you should use a boring bar to bore the hole. That's the most accurate method. However, we do not recommend this method until you are familiar with dimensions and using a boring bar correctly. If you cut the hole too large your goose is cooked, as in well done. We've found that a good set of drill bits, checking your centers and a real good chuck will deliver the same results. There are many ways to achieve and build a precision cue as you will come to find out.And yes, that's Brian once again. There is certainly something wrong with him. Why would someone be so happy with what they're doing. Did you ever see someone so happy drilling a hole! :-) Joint Pin Installation #2 Yep, that's Brian again happy as ever. He loves his work here at Cue Components. Anyway.... here he is drilling the hole for the fourth and final time. After checking his work, he's precisely on center with his cue. He's one happy camper.We will not show our method of actually installing the pin as it is a proprietary method. However, most cue makers, at this point tap the hole with the appropriate tap. Then, test fit the pin and use your favourite epoxy and you're done. And, do not pour epoxy into the hole and then turn your pin inward. If you do that, you'll build up hydraulic pressure which will cause damage. Just add glue to the pin threads and just a few drops inside the threads, deep within the hole. This is sufficient.Now that all this is done and I don't have to baby sit any longer, I can go back to do what I do best and that's creating these dumb stories. Actually, we're hoping Brian stays on course and works out as he does appear to be promising. That is, if he doesn't read that darn book any more! :-)BTW... we have joint pins available for those who need a quality pin in Brass.

In this area we'll demonstrate how to do precision ring work. Whether you're doing simple rings or multiple complex rings, the proceedure is the same.While there are other methods of performing this work we believe our method produces the best results. This method produces rings without glue lines and when you spin the cue, the rings will spin true instead of wobbling like many production cues. Our method takes a lot longer but the results are worth the time. So, take your time, have patience, take a break in between and the results will be perfection. Remember, you're not out to win a race!We'd also like to point out that what we're showing here is doing advanced ring work for flawless looking rings. There are other methods but we like this one the best. We do hope you appreciate the time that we put into doing all these and the many hours of trial, error and expense that they will save you. Sanding The Rings The first thing you need to do is get all your rings together and decide what you are going to use. Put them in the same order as you plan on installing them. Why? Becasue I'm anal and that's the way we do it.Next item is never assume anything. If you buy phenolic rings (or anything for that matter) which are made by someone else, never assume anything. In fact, assume that they are always wrong and your work will benefit as a result. So, in-other-words always true-up anything you are about to use.Get all your rings and sand one side on a belt sander bed. You do not do this under power. You can use any flat surface with sand paper glued down but be sure it's flat. Just sand in round motions until the surface is evenly sanded. This means to remove all shiny areas. We place all the sanded sides face down and then bring them over to our work piece. Cutting The Tenon You'll need to cut a tenon to .625. Do it between centers to insure a perfect tenon and a real good face-off. If this face is not true, by the time you get to the last ring, the inaccuracy will be very noticable. Do it right!See inset photo --- As you're facing off between centers, you want to also sand the end near the face at the same time (do not sand the face). This insures a real clean and sharp edge and it removes all the little fibers as a result of facing. Deburring You'll want to deburr your rings to remove excess debris and make them fit easier. Don't remove too much material as you want a snug fit but not a tight fit. Bob asked me to mention that those are his hands. Deburring #2 You can deburr phonelic, wood and an other material with this home made tool. It's a 1" counter sink glued into a handle. You need to deburr all materials to remove any possibility of resistance at the inner wall. This does a great job of doing that. Face off your work piece and sand as is show elsewhere in this series, then deburr. Facing Between Centers Now, you may not need to do every face off between centers but for the extra 5 seconds it takes to move the tail stock up to the work piece, we do it. When you're working so close to the chuck, you probably don't need to use it but like I said, for the 5 seconds it's added insurance. All cutting and facing off should be done between centers for accuracy especially when cutting tenons. Facing Each Ring Now, this is the anal part of doing ring work. Most cue makers sand both sides of the ring and then install them. We use to do it that way and it works fine. You sand both surfaces real good, use epoxy and then slide them on, line them and wait for the epoxy (use West) to set.However, we only sand one side on all the rings and then glue one on using Thin Cyanoacrylate. The Cyano dries quickly and we then face that ring off. The face off barely removes any material but that's just enough. Then you glue the sanded surface of the next ring onto the faced off side of the previous ring. And so on, and so on. We've found that this process creates flawless ring work.Caution: When using Cyano, you do not have any room for error. You have to be familiar with using it and good at doing it this way. It may take some practice but we think it's the way to go for flawless rings and no glue lines.The above method of doing ring work is probably the best method around and remember where you read it as we appreciate the words of praise from so many of you. That's why we keep this series going and constantly add to it. Facing and Sanding Together When we cut the tenon and face it off, we also like to sand the higher wood as well. Anytime we do a face off of this type, we also sand. You can also sand each ring but it's more difficult as the rings are super thin and so you have to sand the edge on an angle as long as you don't sand the face. This makes a nice clean and sharp edge. It makes a difference and removes any micro fibers that may be present.The sanding blocks are available at Lowes or Home Depot. We love them as they're really convenient.Huh, not a bad picture; sanding with my left and taking the picture with my right. I can also walk and chew gum at the same time. :-)

Here we show how the butt sleeve is done. You'll gain a basic understanding of how this is completed. Cutting The Tenon     This is being shown from scratch so that you'll understand and see how's it's done.The first thing is to cut a tenon. We first decide how long our sleeve area needs to be to accept the sleeve and ring work. Basically you add all the part lengths up and cut an equal tenon. The tenon is cut over a period of a few weeks along with the handle itself; this is done between centers. As we're incrementally reducing the handle, we're also cutting the tenon for the sleeve over the same period of time and once again between centers. It is very important that this all be done between centers to maintain integrity of the piece.Once this is completed, we also cut threads and glue relief slots. The glue relief slots are for more surface area contact of the glue than actual relief.Please Note: The butt sleeve may be just glued on the tenon as many cue builders do. However, for added structural integrity, all our butt sleeves are threaded on. Most advanced cue builders will use this method of mating the butt sleeve to the tenon. We have not shown this technique here but we will be showing the actual threading prodeedure in a different construction section. Drilling The Sleeve   We decide what flavour of wood we're going to use. We have many various woods all precut for sleeves. We then proceed to drill a hole through the sleeve itself. Just Add Glue All the parts are 'faced off' and sanded for a smooth and tight fit. We test fit the parts and if they all fit well, we then add glue.Once the glue has set we then turn the piece down while still remaining oversized. The Finished Product And here's what the finished sleeve looks like.

We're working on displaying two methods of joining the handle and forearm. The first method will be joining the handle into the forearm and the second will be joining the forearm into the handle.Unquestionably, the most difficult thing to master (aside from executing perfect points) is the joining of the handle to the forearm. This proceedure can make or break a cue.Please Note: While we have attempted to offer an illustrated series, it goes without question that there are other factors than just these steps to achieving a perfect marriage between the handle and forearm. Additionally, this is the most basic method of performing this task. There are other more complex methods which we use as well. It all depends on what we are trying to achieve; woods, weight, balance and hit.Precision and patience are the key here. This series shows two methods of how the handle is joined to the forearm; handle into forearm and also forearm into handle.    

Here we show a picture gallery of how the forearm is built with detailed explanation.The first step is to pick out veneers; the colors and how many. Once we have determined those choices, we then glue them up as is shown in the next photo. Glued Up Veneers Ok, now you're saying, this is all great info but what glue can you use to glue up the veneers. Actually, you can use just about anything. You can use white glue, Cyanoacrylate, West System and our own Finishing Epoxy. So which is best? Well, the Cyanoacrylate will dry super fast; the West takes about 24 hours for a full cure and our Finishing Epoxy will dry in about 20-40 minutes. Now, depending on your patience level and how fast you want to use them determines which to use. So, the Cyano is too fast and West is too slow. So, guess which is best. You can use the thin Cyano to glue up the veneers to a 45 degree angle and West to glue in the point wood.Once we have picked out our veneer choices, we then decide what order they need to be in. We apply glue to each layer and place the other color on top. Once this set is complete we wrap it. When all the sets are done, they are then placed in our veneer press for a full 24 hours. We then take them out and we have perfectly glued and most importantly, flat sets of veneers. The veneer sets are then run through our special veneer saw which cuts a perfect 90 degree angle. The veneers are then glued at a perfect 90 degree angle. Once they dry (24 hours later) we then glue in the center wood and that is allowed to dry another 24 hours. What you then have is the next photo.Ok, now you're saying, this is all great info but what glue can you use to glue up the veneers. Actually, you can use just about anything. You can use white glue, Cyanoacrylate, West System and our own Finishing Epoxy. So which is best? Well, the Cyanoacrylate will dry super fast; the West takes about 24 hours for a full cure and our Finishing Epoxy will dry in about 20-40 minutes. Now, depending on your patience level and how fast you want to use them determines which to use. So, the Cyano is too fast and West is too slow. So, guess which is best. You can use the thin Cyano to glue up the veneers to a 45 degree angle and West to glue in the point wood. You can use Medium Cyano to glue in the point wood but there is no room for error and once you place it in; it's in there for good.Please Note: When we say 24 hours, this is the minimum allowed drying time; we sometimes allow more time depending on current temperature, moisture, etc. and our mood. :-) The Veneers Glued Up The veneers have been glued at a perfect 90 degree angle. We then choose our wood inlay which is the main point wood (ivory, whatever) and glue that in. That is then allowed to dry at least another 24 hours and what you see here is that finished product. You'll note how the veneers are all perfectly matched up with no space or glue lines. This is the perfection we achieve and it is of the utmost importance for structural integrity.The following is a repeat from the preceeding page:Ok, now you're saying, this is all great info but what glue can you use to glue up the veneers. Actually, you can use just about anything. You can use white glue, Cyanoacrylate, West System and our own Finishing Epoxy. So which is best? Well, the Cyanoacrylate will dry super fast; the West takes about 24 hours for a full cure and our Finishing Epoxy will dry in about 20-40 minutes. Now, depending on your patience level and how fast you want to use them determines which to use. So, the Cyano is too fast and West is too slow. So, guess which is best. You can use the thin Cyano to glue up the veneers to a 45 degree angle and West to glue in the point wood. The Forearm We then choose a front or forearm that we'd like to use or that a client ordered. The piece is turned down and is about 30 - 50 thousandths (+-) over in size which is what you see here. It is reduced in size from a square to this size over a period of months by incrementally reducing it in size every 2-4 weeks (+-). The wood must rest in order to remain happy. We need to keep the wood happy.Cutting A Tenon Once we have our forearm choice we then need to cut a tenon. This tenon is cut in several passes over a period of about 30-45 days. You cannot take it down in one pass; well, you can if you like but if your points run off or you have other problems, you'll know why. This is our method and there are many other methods but this works for us. Cutting In The Points Now that we have the tenon cut it is placed in our milling machine. You'll note now why we needed the tenon. This particular front will have 4 points so we index it at 0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees precise spacing. Cutting Points In Action This photo basically shows you how the points are cut and what they look like. You need speeds in excess of 3000 rpm (higher is better) and a very sharp cutting tool to achieve clean, sharp and accurate 90 degree "V" grooves. Clued Up Forearm This photo shows the actual points glued into the forearm which is then wrapped in a specially coated paper (yes it's wax paper but a certain type) and then tightly banded to insure no spaces and a tight fit. This is allowed to dry for a minimum of 48 hours and sometimes longer. 24 to 48 is usually sufficient when using West System. Forearm Rough With Points Glued In Pretty isn't it!? Well, actually it really is. This piece was taken out of the wrap and this is what you end up with, We then take it over to the bandsaw and cut off the excess material close to the actual forearm wood but staying a safe distance and taking the final passes on the tapering lathe. Turning The Forearm Here we show the actual forearm being cut in the tapering lathe. It is taken down to approximately the forearm wood while barely taking a pass on the forearm itself. What we want to achieve here is to remove all the excess point wood while still remaining over-sized. The Forearm - Turned And Finished (Almost) And, here is the finished product after taking it out of the lathe with the tenon still attached. You'll note how perfect, even, neat and clean the points are. You too can achieve this perfection by taking your time in every step of the construction process. Taking your time and being patient is the key. Cutting The Tenant Off Well, at this point we no longer need the tenon so... off it comes right down to the points. It is then carefully faced off several times to ensure a clean and smooth surface. Take notice how close to the chuck we perform our work. The closer you work the more accurate your work. This does not mean to work up against the chuck; leave yourself room for error. A lathe is a dangerous and unforgiving machine; always wear eye protection and keep your fingers clear of the chuck.You'll also note how the glued up points form a perfect 'cross' and you can see how the points are perfectly matched to the 90 degree "V" groove. All this careful craftsmanship pays off in the finished product. Again, patience, patience, patience.Note: If you have points, it is best to tap into the handle (forearm into handle). Center Drilling The Forearm This is our final proceedure in crafting the forearm before the next stage. Here we are taking a 60 degree center drill to mark the center once again before cutting the tenon and and tapping for the screw (bolt, or whatever you want to call it and whatever you decide to use). Everything is always done between centers.

We purchase quality custom dyed sycamore veneer which are approximately 10" wide and up to 6' in length. Below, we show how we cut them into usable pieces for making veneered points in our custom cues.At the left we show the finished pieces in various colours.Cutting The Veneers The sheets are laid out on a long work bench and then inserted into the high capacity paper cutter. They are then cut in 12" pieces which can be up to approximately 10" in width. Cutting Veneer Strips The small veneer sheets are then sliced using a laminate slitter. The veneer is sliced into usable strips which measure approximately 1.25" X 12".

Wood stabilization.... is it necessary? Absolutely. We treat all woods with a special stabilization and wood preservation process to withstand climatic changes. Our stabilization process reduces shrinking of the wood in dry areas and it reduces swelling in humid areas. Building cues in Nevada is quite different than building a cue in Florida. As such, our cues can be shipped all over the world with the same stability and consistency in each area. Many cue makers do not take such precautions. We have seen many cues built in drier areas become stressed out when the end user resides in Michigan and visa-versa.So... here we show our dipping tank which is nothing more than PVC pipe coupled with a lid and base. It is held stable with a wood base. All these items can be purchased at your local Lowes or Home Depot (our home away from home).The wood should be treated early on so as to allow it to dry. We dip each piece for about 60 seconds or so which allows it to penetrate deep to the core. For example, we dip shafts early on when they are about .950 dowels. We then take about 8-10 cuts (over a period of about a year) before they reach our final taper.We dip our butt section after all work is done (inlays, rings, etc.); when it's about .0010 - .0020 out from final cut. Sometimes we dip butt sections early on and then once again before final cut. Nothing is etched in stone.So what is this secret chemical solution? One word.... Speed Seal!

This shows our scrap work bench with miscellaneous pieces. All these pieces have value. They are either ferrules, joints, butt caps or inlay slabs. All our ivory is pre-ban, natural in colour and never bleached.Elephant Ivory Tusk Section Here is a fabulous and magnificantly clean piece of a tusk section which we own. We purchased a 90lb tusk section and have been using it since (and no, it's not kept at the shop). This particular piece is almost 6" in diameter and over 5" in height; I believe it weighs 6 or so pounds.Watch how we transform this little gem of a section into usable stock. Ivory Tusk Section HalvesThe first thing we do is basically cut it in half. From these halves we then cut them further to produce various cue stock materials; ferrules, joints, butt caps and inlay slabs.Cutting is tricky as we want to maximize our turning stock and minimize waste. It takes years of experience to cut a tusk section into usable materials with minimal waste.Cutting Butt Cap StockNow that we have two halves we further cut one half section into butt cap squares as is shown here. Out of each half we will get 1 butt cap slab which will yield 15 butt caps. We are only making butt caps out of one half and so our yield will be only 15 butt caps (from 3 squares) as opposed to using the two half section slabs to yield 30 but caps.The other half section will be cut for joint stock and will yield 20 joints (from 4 squares).Cut Square StockNow that we have two halves we further cut one half section into butt cap squares as is shown here. Out of each half we will get 1 butt cap slab which will yield 15 butt caps. We are only making butt caps out of one half and so our yield will be only 15 butt caps (from 3 squares) as opposed to using the two half section slabs to yield 30 but caps.The other half section will be cut for joint stock and will yield 20 joints (from 4 squares).Tusk Section FinishedIf you guessed ferrule materials, you were right. From the two large remaining outer sections left over from the joint and butt cap halves, we got additional ferrule material. We ended up with 4 squares from each half and so we have 8 ferrule squares. We always cut ferrule material from the outer edges of every tusk section. We believe through many years of experience that these areas produce the finest ferrules.So, to recap... The tusk section was over 5" in height so each square will yield the following.3 butt cap squares (15 butts caps)4 joint squares (20 joints)8 ferrule squares (40 ferrules)And... look at all the scrap which we will cut down into inlay slabs.Turning Square StockNow what we do is find the center of each square and place it in our lathe and off we go! Each square is turned down to the proper diameter for usable round cue stock which we use ourselves and resell to other cue builders. Turning Stock Round This shows the square stock turned round. See how simple it is. Don't believe it as it's not an easy task not to mention the hazards of cutting Elephant Ivory.We then take each round section and cut it into 1" or so ferrules. The End Result This shows some ferrule stock which has already been turned round. From that we then cut the long round stock into 1" ferrules (center). We then dip each ferrule in shellac to seal them (right 3 ferrules).All done and we do hope you enjoyed this little tour. Thanks for visiting.Cutting Large Inlay Slabs Here is another super large and a real gem of a tusk section. It is approxmately 12.5" in overall length at the short end. The diameter is approximately 5.5" and weighs almost 17 pounds. A georgous section.

We'll start off with the boring technical stuff and then go from there.Red Ivory or what is more commonly know as Pink Ivory. And no, it's not from the tusk of a Pink Elephant. Called "the royal wood of the Zulus" because of its importance in local customs. Native to South Africa otherwise named Berchemia Zeyheri. Distribution occurs from Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa and scattering in other parts of southern Africa.The Tree varies in height from under 20 ft. The flowers are small and greenish-yellow in color. The fruits are small black berries.The wood is uniformly bright pink or pale red. The luster is low, and odor and taste are not distinct. It is hard and heavy.The grain is straight to irregular, while the texture is very fine. The sapwood is almost white, and the pink heartwood, after long exposure, tends to become orange-colored or orange-brown. Red Ivory seasons very slowly and needs care to prevent checking. It is very strong and stiff. It is difficult to work with hand tools, but is an excellent wood for turnery and carving. It takes a high polish. Red Ivory cannot be considered a commercial timber because the trees are scattered as to make exploitation a costly process. The small quantities that are felled are used for fancy articles, inlaid work, small turned goods, and carving.Here we photo a truly rare site. This is about as good as it gets. Here we have an exceptional two hundred pound log of highly prized and exceedingly rare Red Ivory. This particular log is more red than pink. You can see how deep the red is on the ends where we've sealed it with shelac. That will also give an idea on the quality of colour when cues are produced. This log will produce many exceptional pieces.This particular piece has been sawed into 1.5" planks as per our needs. This log was chosen from some of the finest Red Ivory currently available through one of our sources who imports it directly from Africa. Only years of building relations can produce contacts such as we have developed. As such, we get to choose only the finest specimens for use in building cues and sale of fine woods to others.This log will yield many premium long (length is even rarer) squares for forearms and butt sleeves as well as inlay material, points, rings and billets. Of course there will be much waste too due to some checking, defects and sap wood. This particular piece will be placed in our wood storage warehouse and will not see daylight for many, many years.Which brings us to another important issue; daylight. Red Ivory as with all exotic wood should never be placed where it is exposed to daylight and its nasty untraviolet rays. Dark is best.Now, the question.... do you buy logs, lumber or squares for building cues? If you have the experience in purchasing logs, then by all means do so. However, most do not have the expertise to do so on their own and we do discourage it. When buying logs, you can expect about a 20-25% (+-) yield depending on species and quality. Yes, you can save considerably and have all sorts of scrap left over as well as the exceptional pieces. Then, let's not forget the waste too. However, the odds are very much against you when buying logs. You really have to know what you're doing and know who you're dealing with. Additionally, you need to know costs for woods at all stages otherwise you'll bury yourself.You can also buy lumber which is basically the 1.5" planks that you see in the photo's here. Once again, lumber is for the experienced who know how to cut it to maximize the yield. And, not all planks are created equal. The price/quality correlation is important and you have to know the ratio and current market values.Red Ivory sells for anywhere from $7 to as high as $25 a pound. Now, this is not etched in stone or anything but it's a good ballpark. Some even sell it by the inch at $5 or more (for 1.5" square material). Obviously, price is dependent on quality, size and moisture content. Red Ivory is one of the most expensive, scarce and highly prized woods available today. Buying logs requires large investments and time, time, time to age the wood properly before it can be used. Of course the most fun is with the logs but unless you have knowledge, money, dedication and patience -- logs are not the way to go.You can purchase very nice squares which is the recommended method for building cues. Of course you need a good supplier too. :-)We have tonage of Red Ivory (it's one of our favourites) in stock which has been aging since 1990. This example is one of our latest purchases and we have much more of it coming in due to the high quality. And that's another thing.... when you are offered exceptional woods; by all means break the bank to buy it as you may never see that quality or have access to it again. When it comes to quality woods, buy, buy, buy.You can never have enough wood. :-)Our favourite woods are Red Ivory, Ebony, Brazilian Rosewood, Cocobolo, Blackwood, Olive Wood, Zircote, Bocote and a host of other exotic woods. Burls are coming into their own today due to many cue builders utilizing these woods with the use of coring them out and placing laminated dowels inside to strengthen this otherwise fragile wood. That's a whole other subject which will be covered in greater detail in another section.

Here is a partial photo of a Wood-Mizer LT-27 Sawmill (cost about $10k). Our friend Indiana Mike owns this sawmill and cuts our logs for us into slabs.Preparing The LogThis is a log of ebony being prepared by cutting off any extruding limbs. That's Indiana Mike doing the cutting. And, yeah... he's one dangerous dude with that chain saw!Cutting The LogHere's Mike cutting the log in 1.5" slabs so that they are more managable. The End ResultPretty ebony huh! This is the end result from one log out of 6 which we cut this day. A Days WorkAnd here's about 2 logs worth of ebony back at our shop. The work is now only beginning.Cutting SquaresHere are the slabs being cut into 1.5" squares. Each slab has to be mapped out and cut to achieve a maximum yield. It's real dirty work but we wouldn't trade it in for anything. We cut 6 logs worth of ebony this day. It was an all day affair; one our back is still reminding us of.This picture was taken after approximately 2 logs worth of slabs were cut into squares. Notice all the scrap atop the table saw. Of course all that scrap is useful in various forms. Once all the major pieces are cut out into squares, we then go back and cut up all the scrap. It almost never ends. Ebony is nasty to cut especially when you're cutting this much.And, once all this is done the squares then need to be planed. These pieces do not need sealing as they are quite dry. All this ebony is back-stock for future use. It's a nice diversion from the daily routines. We very much enjoy buying and cutting new purchases. :-)

Cue LathesThere are many different manufacturers of desktop cue lathes and equipment for building cues. Over the years we've purchased many pre-owned models from all three manufacturers and resold them to new cue makers. As such we've toyed with them and each prove to be viable for making cues. We thought we'd offer you our experience with them so you can make a sound decision as to your needs.From the list of popular manufacturers there are the Porper Model B Q-Lathe, Chris Hightower's line of Cue Smith Lathes and last but surely not least is Unique Products Cue Making Equipment.To start off with, the photo's you see here are actual machines which we currently use in our shop. None were purchased new. We'll relate a sad but true story. One of our clients called us one day and told us he was quitting making cues. As such, he had the Unique Products line of cue making equipment. He had purchased all three machines new from Unique. He purchased the Taper Shaper with the quiet router and an assortment of parts and tooling as well as the inlay machine attachment (cost new was almost $5500). He also purchased the Cue Maker Lathe with all the bells and whistles (cost new was $4300). Here he spent almost $10,000. We purchased the entire package for a fraction of the original cost. When we got the equipment, the inlay attachment was brand new as it was never used. The taper shaper was also new and never used. The cue maker lathe had minimal use on it. So, what is the moral to this story? The purchasing of equipment is a very serious decision and much thought should be given to it. Read and learn as much as you can. Talk to cue makers as cue building, while as rewarding as it may be, it surely full of pitfalls, let downs, mistakes, problems, time consuming and an expensive proposition. You are not going to get the equipment on a Monday, cut wood on Tuesday, put the cue together on Wednesday, finish it on Thursday and sell it on Friday. It's not going to happen! Make sure this is what you want to do or try out before you invest thousands into something that will be nothing more than dust collectors in your shop.We receive numerous phone calls from newbie cue makers who want advice on what cue making equipment to buy. To relieve ourselves of repeating the same thing over and over again to callers, we've decided to put this page up. Now for a review of each so perhaps you can make a better decision. We have not been compensated for these reviews and they are totally our opinion based on our experience with all three manufacturers.Joe Porper makes a really nice machine that is fully capable of making cues. It's large and fairly stable. There are many different attachments for all the various tasks of making cues. The cost of his unit is almost $4000.Chris Hightower makes what we believe to be the best cue making equipment for both ease of use, accuracy and cost. His Deluxe Cue Smith� lathe is a dynamite piece of equipment. To start off with, he actually uses one in addition to other machines to build his own cues. That in itself speaks volumes on his behalf. The headstock is machined to very high tolerances and everything is fixed so nothing needs adjustment. Additionally, his headstock has a rear chuck to hold work pieces dead on center. This feature is invaluable for precision. His taper bar is a little cumbersome to set-up but once you have it dialed in, it never needs adjustment. The machine is stable and solid. The cost is only $2700 with all the bells and whistles.Unique Products builds a fine line of cue making equipment. Their Taper Shaper is a dynamite piece of equipment and does an excellent job of tapering shafts and butts. We've found this machine to be the best on the market for taking passes on wood. The base price is $2895. While the cost is high, the quality and precision is equally as high.Unique also makes a Cue Maker Lathe that is rock solid and extremely accurate. Like the Hightower lathe, the Unique has a method of holding the work piece on center and the machine does a multiple of different tasks. If you add the automatic cutter feed, it does a super job of taking passes. The base price is $3195.So what's all this mean? If you're just starting out with a limited budget, we highly recommend Hightower's machines. His equipment is fine for those of you just starting out and you won't outgrow it. It's a very useful machine, one that will return it's cost over and over again.At some point, as you gain experience, you can move up to floor lathes, milling machines and even perhaps a CNC. Start out small and slow until you gain more and more knowledge. If you have limited room, you can add the Unique Taper Shaper as an additional machine so you would have a dedicated tapering machine. The Unique Taper Shaper does a better job than the Hightower in cuts but only comes with a standard taper. The Hightower can be adjusted. We like the Unique line of equipment but the cost is considerably higher. If you have the money, go for it as you will surely not be disappointed.Well, that's about it for now. We do hope you've found this interesting and that this proves useful to you in making a decision. Good luck!

The first thing we'd like you to do is click on the picture to your left and study the photo. We want you to see if there is anything wrong with the item in the chuck. Study it carefully.Do you see anything wrong? Just look and see if everything is on center. As you look closely, you'll plainly see that there is more ferrule material on one side of center whereby making the ferrule installation off center. True quality craftsmanship (and yes, we are of course being sarcastic).This shaft was taken in for repair; we were asked to put a new tip on. While we will put tips on most any cues, we will not work on just any cue. This picture explains why. Cues from overseas usually exhibit some form of poor quality control and this creates more problems for us that the repair is worth. As such we refuse all such repair requests such as rewraps which notoriously spin out of control. To avoid any potential problems we respectfully decline all repairs of imported cues.To take this one step further, we will not do repairs on any production cues as well. In many instances, this type of construction is typical with many production cue makers. Pumping out quantity for cash profits has resulted in poorer quality in many American production cues. We were recently asked to glue a butt cap that came loose on a very well known production cue. We looked at it and declined the repair because the butt cap did not match up to the butt sleeve properly and when put in the lathe - well, that's another story.And to take this to the next level, the cue pictured here is from a well know custom cue maker. We were shocked at seeing this but when your name is well known and demand far exceeds a cuemakers capability, the net results are obvious. There is no excuse for this shoddy craftsmanship. It is just as easy to do it correctly as it is to produce this creation.The moral to this story.... just because you make a cue and cover a mistake does not mean that someone else may not find it out. Take your time and do it right. Do not put this type of quality into the marketplace and if you do, you will be found out. And when you can no longer sell a cue, you'll know why.Special Note: While we do not like to work on production cues, this is not to say that all production cues suffer from shoddy construction techniques. We will say that we have yet to see a imported cue that spins on center or is not warped. Everyone wants to be a cue maker!

Many aspiring cue makers want to learn as much as they can as quickly as they can. We get calls all the time with people misidentifying lathe parts and their purpose. This can most certainly be frustrating having to listen and then trying to figure out what a person actually means. A friend (thanks Bob!) recently sent us this link which is a wonderful endeavor and if you read it closely, it will explain all the working parts of a lathe and what they are used for. Please click here for the best web page we've ever seen on how to use a lathe.